A New Project and Bloemfontein

11-10-08
I have a new project! Last Wednesday morning my counterpart, Keletso, let me know that we'd be meeting later that day with someone from PSI Lesotho about a new project grant they had received to work with support groups. Each PSI/New Start branch in the country will select two existing, motivated support groups to work with over the next year. In addition to helping them focus more on the “support” aspect of the group (support groups here are primarily exist to generate revenue, which tends to disappear or be squandered, and don't follow the traditional emotional and psychological support model common in the U.S.), the grant will also allow us to fund some community outreach and beautification projects.

Much to my surprise and enjoyment, Andréa, a RPCV who finished her service a couple months ago, turned out to be the person who will be working with us on the project. She's currently looking for a job with an NGO here in Lesotho but is working on this project in the meantime. During our meeting we discussed the basic parameters and outline of the project. Keletso's and my job is to first identify two support groups we'd like to work with and then meet with them once weekly for six months. During the first month, Keletso will facilitate sessions on the importance of psychological and emotional support, confidentiality and the basics of facilitating a support group session. During the following five months the group members themselves will present sessions on various HIV/AIDS and positive living topics. The idea is that when we are finished, the group members will not only have gained emotional support and knowledge but will also be able to use their newly-found facilitation skills to replicate the program with another group.

Throughout the six months, we will also allow the group to apply for money to fund community outreach and beautification projects. I'm planning to create an application form and present a short session discussing the basics of applying for funding. Since our grant expires in August 2009, the groups will need to know how to go about applying for funding from other sources. My hope is that by making them fill out an application, the groups will think through their proposed projects in detail and we will have some control over exactly how the funds are spent. Money has a way of disappearing here, and I am a bit nervous about the amount of oversight there will be. All in all I am excited to have this project to work on with PSI/New Start, one that I feel like I can actually sink my teeth into. Keletso and I will be attending a workshop in Maseru on Thursday, along with staff from all the other PSI/New Start branches, so hopefully things will be clearer after that.

Ashley came into town Thursday afternoon, and Friday we headed out for Bloemfontein, South Africa. We made it door-to-door in just under three hours, thanks to a hitch from Mafeteng to the border and another from the border to Mimosa Mall. I expected to feel pretty out of place, going from five months in Lesotho to a mall, but that didn't really happen (I'm not sure if that's good or bad). There were some distinct, shocking differences, however.

Bloem attracts PCVs for three main reasons: shopping, food and nightlife. It's not really a tourist destination, not near the water or full of wildlife. But, it's good when you just need to feel “normal” for awhile. Our first stop was Mug & Bean for some coffee. I had three cups and my ensuing caffeine buzz and speed-talking was amusing to all (Karrin, a PCV from my group, arrived with Nichol and Francis, Nichol's fiánce, about an hour after Ashley and I. Trish, another PCV from my group, came in a few hours later). The rest of the day was spent checking out the stores and eating, of course. I had my McDonald's, which I never eat in the States but, I have to tell you, tasted pretty darn good. I found tortilla chips at Woolworth's and Pick-n-Pay, a grocery store chain, had pretty much everything else imaginable. Almost like home...almost.

I feel the need to insert a random observation here. Some white Afrikaners, who live mostly in the Free State, have a habit of not wearing shoes. Most do, but every few minutes I would spot one barefoot. In a mall, restaurant, club. Doesn't matter. I'm not really sure where this whole “shoes not needed” thing came from. Honestly, it's pretty gross, I think. It's not that they can't afford them, these are the rich people! Anyway, moving on...

Friday night we went to Cool Runnings and Mystic Boar, two bars in town. It was nice to get dressed up, put on makeup and feel like normal me for once. Around midnight we were all craving food so we made a McDonald's run (I know, my cholesterol has got to be disgusting at this point) where we proceeded to walk through the drive-thru. I'm pretty sure they don't let you do that at home, but they simply asked that we “wait in line like a car.” I think the guys behind us in line were pretty entertained. Trish engaged them in political talk while Nichol, our “driver,” made sure we knew each time the line moved ahead. Francis, Ashley and I were busy getting our groove on. If only we had a video camera! We called it a night around 3 a.m. and I stayed at Francis' sister's house with Nichol and him while Ashley, Karrin and Trish stayed at an amazing guest house that offers great discounts to PCVs.

Saturday was much the same, shopping and eating during the day and going out at night. We had a nice dinner at the Waterfront Mall, seafood and Brazilian cuisine. We also met up with Dion, one of Nichol's friends who lives in Bloem. He was incredibly friendly and generous and let Nichol, Francis and I stay the night at his place. We did end up turning in early, around 12:30 a.m. I think only having three hours of sleep finally caught up to us.

Sunday morning I made the ten minute walk from Dion's to the taxi rank to head home. I could immediately sense the difference. Literally, just from crossing the street, it changed to something much like Lesotho. It was strange how obviously segregated the city is, how much the remnants of apartheid still exist. At the malls and the bars, the crowds were almost totally white. Here, I was the only white person in sight. It wasn't unsafe, people were just as friendly and helpful as anywhere else, it was just that I was, quite obviously, an oddity. I've become used to it in Lesotho, but to have it be so distinct from one side of a city to another was a little disconcerting. As our kombi made its way out of town and back towards the border gate, we passed by the townships that surround this and every city in South Africa. Littered with tin shacks held together with I can only imagine what, they are a shocking reminder of the fact that this is, indeed, still a third world country. The disparity between rich and poor was the real surprise to me. I mean, Lesotho is poor, but there isn't much of an ultra-rich class, there isn't as much contrast. As we rolled towards home, I thought a lot about these issues, things that are easily ignored when you are the one sipping a latte, maybe not so easily ignored when you are the one serving it.