More free internet, hooray! I'm at the Volunteer Resource Center (VRC) here in Maseru on my way back to Mafeteng and couldn't pass up an opportunity to use free, non-dial-up internet to update everyone on my last few days.
After spending Friday night with Ashley, Nicole and Denni, a PCV visiting from up in the mountains in Mohotlong district, Ashley and I headed off to Malealea, a lodge in the mountains about an hour from Mafeteng. We stopped by Shoprite to get some food and another PCV who was in town happened to see the lodge owner in the store and introduced us. He was nice enough to give us a ride to the lodge, saving us both an hour on a kombi and 14M. Score! He turned out to be this nice guy from SA who's wife's family started the lodge. The place was AMAZING...gorgeous scenery, trees (which there are too few of here) and a great bar/restaurant. Strange to say, but I felt much more "normal" being in a tourist setting than I have the entire time I've been here.
Barb and Karrin, two other PCV's from my group, met us up there, and after great debate and despite the ominous looking clouds, the four of us decided to take a pony trek out to see some cave paintings. I haven't ridden a horse since I was really young and even then it was only maybe a short ride in 4-H, so it took me a bit to get my bearings...and they gave me the pregnant horse. Poor thing! Half way out to the gorge where the paintings were located, it started to storm. I have never experienced storms like the ones here. From absolute quiet the wind will start to blow like crazy, whipping up dirt and creating a thick haze. Then the rain starts to pour. No sprinkles, just immediate downpour, usually with hail. And as quickly as the storms come up, they dissipate and head off into the distance.
So there we were, out on the middle of a plateau, definitely the highest objects for miles around, and the rain began to pour down on us as the wind pushed it sideways into our faces. Hail started to form but luckily it was small and didn't last for long. When the torrent let up, we discussed heading back but were almost to the gorge and decided to keep on. We descended part way on horseback and then proceeded down the rocks on foot. A guide took us down the steep sides, stopping along the way at an echo cave, where our shouts echoed all around the gorge. Once we reached the bottom and crossed a small stream, he lead us back up a vertical wall (I've never rock climbed, but this would be an amazing place to learn) and into a cave where paintings made more than 1,100 years ago are still quite visible. It was amazing to see and even more amazing that they remain in-tact even without any real protection. Thunder rumbled in the distance and the dark sky gave it a surreal feel. During the climb back up we stopped at a few more places where additional drawings were placed. Just as we reached the top of the gorge, an amazing rainbow appeared stretching across both sides. It was breathtaking, I didn't want to blink and miss even a second of it. I just kept thinking to myself, "When I have bad days, this is what I need to think about." I haven't felt that at peace in a really long time.
We made it almost the entire hour ride back on our horses, but just as we got into town another downpour hit us and we were soaked to the bone. Luckily a warm shower and change of clothes fixed things up. We spent the evening in the lodge's main building near the fire pit and met some people from Spain who were studying English in Cape Town and four guys from the U.K. who visit trekking lodges to ensure the horses are properly cared for. I guess that's another great thing about visiting touristy places, meeting other travellers from around the world.
The next morning as we were preparing to go our separate ways, Ashley noticed a car leaving and asked where they were headed to. They were going to Maseru and gave Barb and I a hitch into town. Turns out they were two girls from France, one of whom is working in SA and studied in the U.S. Total saved on transport so far: 44M.
After wandering around the taxi rank and getting my first KFC meal since I arrived (yes, the willpower is strong with me, at least when it comes to fried chicken. Not so much with Doritos or chocolate or banana bread or...) I took a kombi up to TY to meet some other PCV's who were putting on a workshop about stigma and HIV/AIDS. Becky, a third year PCV who's school we did the workshop at, invited me to help out since my work here in Lesotho will revolve around HIV/AIDS education. It was an incredible two days and I'm so thankful to her for inviting me up. We facilitated six sessions, three Monday and three Tuesday, talking to students in Forms A-E (equivalent to grades 8-12 in the states) about stigma, its impact on their lives and on the HIV epidemic here in Lesotho. The classes were really receptive and asked some great questions. After the last session on Tuesday all eight of us who were facilitating met in the hall to answer students' questions about HIV/AIDS and condoms. Andrea lead the group demos and then we each had students line up to practice on their own.
But I think my favorite part of the whole experience, and the most surprising, came after we finished demos. A group of students were asking me questions about where I was from, why I came here, etc. and then asked what I had gone to school for. I guess journalism majors are not found too frequently here, and the group asked me question after question (and good, in-depth questions) about things like journalism ethics, freedom of the press and interviewing. I was able to have an actual conversation with these kids about why the balance of power between the government and journalists is so important and how libel and open records laws in the states ensure that balance is kept. And they understood. And were interested! It was amazingly fulfilling to be able to talk to people, people who where interested, about something I enjoy and know so much about.
We capped off our two days of hard work at Becky's, eating her AMAZING chili, cornbread and cookies and watched hours of episodes of Heroes. Who knew I'd get addicted to yet another show while in Africa? But I do have to tell you, t.v. is so much better here because there are no commercials (since all the episodes we have access to come from DVDs or online) and, well, it really feels like home.
This morning I caught another hitch with a guy coming into Maseru from Butha Buthe and here I am at the office. And I hear PC is heading to Mafeteng later today so hopefully I can get another ride home. Frugal Kelly, saving 83M in four days. :)
And yet another bit of good news, several cards and letters and my first package (thanks Mom!) were waiting for me here at the office.
Things are well here, but I miss you all more than I can even put into words. Until next time, salang hantle!
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